VICTORIA'S
NEIGHBOURHOODS SPARKLE IN SPRINGTIME
by Jane LangOn a sparkling,
spring morning, you stroll a picture-perfect harbour savouring the
sights. There's the bustle of boats on the sun-glimmering bay, the
distinctive architecture of the BC Parliament Buildings and the
Fairmont Empress Hotel, and the glorious gardens and hanging baskets
that add a kaleidoscope of colour to the already dazzling scene. As
you take in the thousands of blooms that adorn nearby green spaces and
sea air tingles your nostrils, it seems apparent that spring may be
the best of all seasons in this city by the sea. However, as wonderful
and eclectic as the harbour front is, there's more to Victoria --
visitors are wise to treat themselves to some of its picturesque
neighbourhoods.
For
the gay traveler there really is no "gay ghetto" in Victoria.
But that doesn't mean Victoria lacks for things to do for the gay and
lesbian traveler. Take a quick stop at
http://gayvictoria.ca
for all the scoop on what to do while in our provincial capital!
Victoria's vibrant villages -- some trendy,
some historical – give a backyard glimpse of life in this casual
city's neighbourhoods where comfortable outdoor strolling takes place
year-round. Chinatown, for example, is a
bustling Asian neighbourhood right in city centre. Storefronts with
unusual products -- tangy spices, live seafood, abundant greens, and
the likes of lichee nuts – offer a colourful, aromatic visit to a
distant l
and.
Near the eye-catching Gate of Harmonious Interest, don't miss a visit
to the tranquil Silk Road Aromatherapy and Tea Company where you are
welcomed with a cup of tea. As well as treating yourself to a special
blend, a visit to the day spa is a glorious conclusion to a day. One
can spend hours strolling Canada's oldest Chinatown, shopping for
unique paraphernalia and, of course, eating. Chongqing chicken,
anyone?
A little farther afield, but an easy amble
from downtown, is Antique Row. Follow Fort Street east about six
blocks to this much-visited neighbourhood. Move over London's
Portobello Market, as Victoria offers a similar scene. You wander in
and out of charming, musty collector-type shops where you are tempted
by everything from 18th century furnishings and jewellery to rare
silverware and books. Antique Row is
perhaps a slight misnomer as, among some Tudor-style buildings, it
also boasts contemporary facades, like 'The Mosaic,' a hip residential
and business complex. This neighbourhood is a fun mishmash including
the eateries: as examples, there's the funky Blue Fox Café as well as
one of the city's favourite restaurants, Café Brio. It's the next best
thing to a Tuscan visit.
Little
known by visitors but one of the locals' favourite neighbourhoods
is Cook Street Village. In the south, Cook Street reaches to the ocean
and fringes Beacon Hill Park, a luxuriant parkland that hums with
outdoor activities. The hub of Cook Street Village is around Fairfield
Avenue where pretty tree-lined streets, many with brightly-painted,
heritage homes – some larger ones are apartments that are popular with
students -- open to a few busy blocks where people-watching is de
rigueur. This funky, inner-city village is SO west coast. Victorians
head to Moka House to sip java, read papers and meet friends. For
snacking, there's fish and chips, sweets at Rising Star Bakery or have
pub fare and beer on tap, at the friendly Flying Beagle. Pop into Cook
St. Village Wines where the owner will happily introduce you to the
best of BC offerings.
If one neighbourhood epitomizes Victoria it is
Oak Bay Village. It has it all. An abundance of heritage homes
surrounded by beauteous spring blooms, a strip of Old English
storefronts that always buzz, the classy Victoria Golf and Country
Club, and all this slips down to an idyllic oceanfront complete with
beach and marina. On a warm spring day you stroll among the cherry
blossoms to shop, gallery visit or have tea. You could arrive by
sailboat and start at Oak Bay Marina, wander the waterfront to Oak Bay
Beach Hotel. Don't leave without walking the gardens that stretch down
to the sea. From here head uphill to the village which has a fine
offering of shops -- clothing, books, antiques, handicrafts and
specialty stores. Tea is served at The Blethering Place at 11am and
7:30 pm daily. Another spot for tea sippers, is the White Heather Tea
Room. It has a neighbourhood feel, is bright and cheerful with fresh
flowers and to-die-for shortbread.
If you arrive or depart by ferry, or if you
simply wish a drive beyond the city, Sidney-by-the-Sea is a pleasant
destination. Near the northern tip of the Saanich Peninsula – just
before the Swartz Bay ferry terminal – is where the cosy community of
Sidney-by-the-Sea hugs the ocean. It's one of those idyllic small
towns where one can easily imagine setting down roots. Bibliophiles
revel in the dozens of bookstores this community of 11,000 offers. Do
as the locals do and stroll down Beacon Avenue enjoying shops along
the way; a stop at an Italian bakery for a sweet and café latte, then
continue down to the ocean. Find a bench in the sun and enjoy.
Don't
miss these neighbourhoods but there are also several rites of passage
that must take place on a Victoria visit. You don't have to be a
green-thumber to be enamoured by the fragrant, imaginative offerings
of the world famous Butchart Gardens. Another must-visit is to one of
Canada's premier museums. The Royal BC Museum is currently featuring
"Dragon Bones: When Dinosaurs Ruled China". Victoria is the first
venue in Canada where this extraordinary exhibit of unique dinosaur
fossils can be seen (March 13 to September 15). Tickets are available
online at
http://www.tourismvictoria.com.