
Visiting Feathered Friends in Brackendale
by Judi Lees
Dozens of majestic bald eagles rest in a towering
cottonwood tree on the shores of the Squamish River. Others soar
gracefully above the rushing river and great numbers congregate on
sandbars and shorelines. Welcome to winter in Brackendale, about 85
kilometres north of Vancouver, where eagle watching is not
happenchance. Between mid-November and February, thousands of eagles
gather to feast on a banquet of spawning chum salmon.
On any given winter’s day, camera and
binocular-toting visitors arrive in this small village that holds the
world record for visiting eagles. In January, 1994 3,766 eagles were
documented. These regal birds astound in their size and number. They
have wing spans over two-and-a-half metres (six to eight feet) and can
dive for fish at a rate of 160 kmp. No diving is necessary during this
season, though, as the spawning Chum pile up along the shoreline or
lie in shallow waters. It’s interesting to note that eagles, who are
not a social group and often fight over food, tolerate each other at
this convention of the hungry. You may even observe two birds sharing
one fish. The large, mottled brown eagles are juveniles; it takes
about four years for them to get their lustrous white markings.
There are many ogling opportunities: you can take a
guided walk, hop on a river raft, view eagles by horseback, or simply
hike the dykes on your own to take in the feasting eagles. The
550-hectare reserve of thick forest -- some is old growth– bisected by
the Squamish, Cheakamus and Mamquam Rivers, is easily reached by the
Sea to Sky Highway. It is important that the eagles not be disturbed
as they utilize valuable calories if they make an untimely lift-off.
Visitors are asked to keep a respectable distance from the birds.
Dress warmly and bring rain gear; cameras and binoculars are key.
A good time to view eagles is after a heavy rainfall
as the river drops and leaves easy pickings along the shore. Early
morning is the favourite feeding as they swoop down, survey the
smorgasbord -- as many as 450,000 chum salmon spawn here -- and then
land to savour a salmon.
The Brackendale Art Gallery, which encompasses art,
theatre and a teahouse, is a hub for eagle watchers. Owners Thor and
Dorte Froslev can assist with arranging tours. Maps are available at
the Gallery and, on weekends in December and January, at a pavilion on
the banks of the Squamish River. Thor Froslev began Brackendale’s now
famous eagle count in 1986. Last January, volunteers tabulated 2,035.